New Italian Jewelry Designs from VicenzaOro

The subtle differences of the two tones of gold color and the texture of the precious metal are the hallmarks of Anna Maria Cammilli. The simplicity of this nature-inspired motif is used throughout the collection in complicated ways. Diamond accents enhance the design.

The recently concluded VicenzaOro Fall jewelry tradeshow may have marked a turning point for the Italian jewelry industry, which has been suffering due to the global recession, the spike in gold prices and high labor costs.

The butterfly from Damiani uses yellow gold accented by brown and white diamonds, and amethysts. Each butterfly is made with a variety of material combinations and can be worn as a pendant, brooch or set onto a ring.

At this year’s show, held September 7 -11, approximately, 1,200 Italian and foreign brands from 30 countries presented a breadth of jewelry products to more than 18,000 buyers (10,879 from Italy and 7,160 from 111 other countries).

18k yellow gold cuff with diamond pavé accent by Chimento.

Show officials were particularly excited about the “return” of some Italian retailers, seeing it as “an encouraging sign considering the much-desired end of the most critical phase of the recession.”

A silver star-shaped ring with a white pearl by Mayumi.

The show numbers coincide with data from the Italian government reporting second quarter growth for Italian jewelry exports, after two years of decline. Growth was recorded in terms of value (6%) and quantity (2.6%) over the same period of the previous year. Exports to the US, the world’s largest jewelry market, increased 12 percent in value in the second quarter.

From Fope’s Flex’it collection, patented ‘roll on’ mesh chain bracelets are crafted in 18k gold and fully flexible, without clasps. The Niue line is designed with a refined version of the classic gold mesh, enriched with black or white diamonds, multiple rondels and limited edition pink sapphire or gold cognac diamond balls.

“Among the industry players there is an atmosphere of moderate confidence,” show officials said.

Rose gold bracelet in a flowing design partially covered with white diamond pave by I Gregori Milano.

VicenzaOro, held four times a year, serves as a showcase of beautiful objects that combine artistry, international fashion trends and technical knowhow. Italian fine jewelry in terms of design and craftsmanship is unparalleled in the world of jewelry making. On this level, the show did not disappoint.

Inspired by the Boboli Gardens this collection of handmade jewellery by Nouvelle Bague uses in gold and diamonds, combined with colored enamel.

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Rings from Porrati with white pearls and rose gold; with pink sapphires set on rose gold; a rose gold ring; and a thin rose gold band set with pink sapphires.

 

I added a piece from Brazilian designer Carla Amorim who was inspired by the formation of sand dunes for these rose gold earrings.

New Colorful and Golden Jewelry Designs from the Couture Show

The NightFall collection by Lagos was one the many new collections unveiled by designer Steven Lagos. It consists of black spinel, 18k gold and diamonds. It is available exclusively at Neiman Marcus through October.

Colored gemstones, which were widely used in place of diamonds during the recession, have continued to find acceptance among designers, retailers and consumers. A variety of bold, precious gems, ranging from dark blue lapis to red spinels to multi-colored sapphires were on display during the Couture Show in the Wynn Las Vegas. Of course, emerald, the color of the year, was prevalent among the designs as well as citrine. In many cases these gems were matched with high-karat gold, which has made a striking and glittering return to the jewelry stage.

Below is a listing of some of the jewelry shown at Couture. 

A faceted citrine center stone is mounted on sterling silver with 18k gold beaded accents by Lagos.

Damiani Butterfly necklace made of 18k gold with sapphires, emeralds and other colored gems.

The deep, rich blue of lapis lazuli is prominent in this necklace by Coomi.

The Marina B Kashan bangle made of 18k gold combined with oval-shaped precious and semi-precious gems.

Black rhodium gold earrings with round brilliant and rose cut diamonds by Michael John Jewelry.

A set of mismatched emerald and opal drop earrings by Arunashi.

A half-white, half-yellow 60-carat citrine surrounded by diamond pave set on 18k gold by Parulina.

18k rose gold crescent ring with brown diamonds, red garnets, light orange sapphires and citrines by Octium.

Large green amber drop attached to an 18k setting with champagne diamond pave by Syna.

18k yellow gold necklace with champagne pave diamonds by Bavna.

18k oxidized gold earrings with pink opals and black diamonds by Ivanka Trump

Gold beaded bracelet by Marco Bicego.

Rings in 18k yellow and rose gold with brown and white diamonds, pink, smoky and lemon quartz, pink tourmaline, ruby mandarin garnet and aquamarine by Brumani.

Red spinel and diamond pave earrings by Erica Courtney

A variety of jewelry pieces made with fossilized materials such as woolly mammoth tusk and gemstones from Monique Péan. 

Independent metalsmith, Victor Velyan’s 22k crocodile-skin bracelet with emeralds.

Aquamarine and Roman coin replica earrings by the 1884 Collection.

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10 New Jewelry Designs from the Centurion Show

8k gold ring with diamond pave is centered with a large emerald cabochon.

It appears that luxury jewelry designers are through experimenting with less expensive materials (due to the economic collapse and high cost of materials) and have returned to producing creations with high-karat gold and platinum as well as big bold gemstones and lots of diamond pavé, if the Centurion Jewelry Show is any indication of what’s to come this year. And I believe it is.

The first major U.S. tradeshow of the year was held Feb. 3 - 5 in Scottsdale, Ariz. The invitation-only event caters to the luxury end of the market. One of the things it provides is the first chance for those in the U.S. to view new designs for the year. I presented an early appetizer of the pieces on display with the Centurion Design Award winners. Now here are 10 more jewelry designers that caught my attention during the show. Enjoy.

Erica Courtney is one of the few designers who can be on trend while maintaining exceptionally high standards, presented an entire collection based on green, including this 18k gold ring is centered with a large emerald cabochon (top photo). The intricate, sculptural-like details of gold are further enhanced with 18k diamond pave.

The Tilley engagement ring by Jeff Cooper Designs features a single row of pave diamonds that tapers toward the center, giving extra emphasis to the center stone. It is available in platinum or 18k gold.

Damiani has come out with a ceramic jewelry line called D.Icon, which includes this ring made of white ceramic with pink gold and diamonds (0.21 cts.).

The Mimi So Phoenix Stackable Band has18k rose gold and leaf work covered in diamonds. It is stackable with other rings in the collection.

Fope Gioielli introduced a flexible cross-over bracelet with elastic wrapping features to the Flex'it Solo line. It is made of 18-carat gold, with or without diamonds.

18k white gold heart shaped hoops with detachable London Blue Topaz drops by Lisa Nik.

Syna Jewels, a new exhibitor, presented a series of highly polished chalcedony drops set with 18k yellow gold from the Mogul collection.

All of the operations of the Frédérique Constant Classics Manufacture Worldtimer is done through the crown, which simplifies setting the time and date, and calibrating the worldtimer. The watch is powered by the FC-718 caliber movement, built in house. The dial is available in a guilloché design or with a silver world map in its center. The watch is also available in steel for $3,450 and rose-gold for $4,150.

The Links of London 8-carat rose gold necklace with a rose gold and black pearl pendant from the Effervescence collection.

18k white gold diamond band in a leaf pattern with yellow gold accents sprinkled with diamonds by Beverley K.

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Damiani Opens Flagship in Osaka

Italian luxury jewelry brand, Damiani, opened a flagship boutique in Osaka, its second in the Japanese city. 

The 1,076-square-foot store in the city’s Umeda section is the first Damiani flagship boutique in the Kansai district and the second Damiani flagship store in Japan, after the Tokyo boutique in Ginza. It’s the tenth Damiani boutique in the country.

Warm and intense shades of natural tones—bronze, gold and copper—that reflect the sunset from Italian islands in the Mediterranean represented the inspiration for the boutique on the first floor of the Hilton Plaza West. 

The project was devised and developed in-house by an all-Italian creative team, included furnishings that were designed and made in Italy. It’s based on the new boutique concept first unveiled by the brand at its recently reopened Montenapoleone boutique in Milan.

Guido Damiani, group president and CEO, was present at the opening on March 5. Japanese actress Yoshino Kimura was the guest of honor.