Tiffany Q2 Earnings Up 16%, Global Sales Up 4%

Exceptional growth in China along with improvements in operating margins led to a better-than-expected 16 percent net earnings increase to $107 million, or $0.83 per diluted share, in the second quarter for Tiffany & Co.

Worldwide net sales for the New York-based luxury jeweler rose 4 percent to $926 million. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, worldwide net sales rose 8 percent, and comparable store sales rose 5 percent due to sales growth in most regions.

As a result, the company raised its year-end outlook to $3.50-$3.60 per diluted share, from $3.43-$3.53 per diluted share in its first quarter outlook. It also plans to continue its worldwide expansion of stores unabated.

In addition to regional growth, product categories also performed well, according to Tiffany’s second-quarter earnings report released Tuesday. The results were dampened a bit by lower-than-expected sales growth in the US and the drastic decline of the Japanese Yen.

Mark L. Aaron, Tiffany VP-Investor Relations, said in a conference call Tuesday that growth in fine jewelry and statement jewelry were extremely strong and outperformed modest growth in fashion jewelry. He added that diamond jewelry, led by colored diamonds, did well particularly well for the period.

Gross margin (gross profit as a percentage of net sales) increased to 57.5 percent in the second quarter from 56.3 percent a year ago. Aaron said this was the result of diminishing product cost pressure and price increases taken earlier in the year. This help lead to a “better-than-expected” improvement in operating margin.

“We were pleased with the results of our efforts to improve gross margin which, combined with well-controlled expenses, yielded a solid increase in operating margin,” added Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO.

Sales by region are as follows:

* In the Americas, total sales increased 2 percent to $444 million in the second quarter. Comparable store sales were unchanged in the quarter, led by growth in Tiffany’s New York flagship store sales. Aaron noted that sales in the US were lower than expected and were mixed throughout the country with no discernible pattern.

* Total sales in the Asia-Pacific region rose 20 percent to $208 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales also rose 20 percent and comparable store sales increased 13 percent, “led by especially strong sales growth in Greater China,” the company said in its report.

* Aaron focused a great deal of time on Japan where the company operates 54 stores. The negative translation effect from a substantially weaker yen caused total sales to decline 14 percent to $136 million in the second quarter. However, he noted that on a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales increased 7 percent in the second quarter, due to comparable store sales growth of 8 percent with strong growth in engagement and higher-end jewelry categories.

* Total sales in Europe rose 11 percent to $111 million in the second quarter. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales rose 10 percent and comparable store sales rose 7 percent due to sales growth in the United Kingdom and most of continental Europe.

* Sales classified as “Other” sales increased 33 percent to $26 million in the second quarter, primarily reflecting the conversion in July 2012 of five Tiffany & Co. stores in the United Arab Emirates from independently-operated to company-operated. The company said it expected to increase its presence in the Middle East.

Tiffany opened three stores in the second quarter, including its ninth in Hong Kong store. Other openings were in, in Verona, Italy and in Villahermosa, Mexico. The company closed a store in Tokyo, due to the mall the store was in closing for long-term renovations, Aaron said.

The company in the second quarter operated 277 stores (116 in the Americas, 67 in Asia-Pacific, 54 in Japan, 35 in Europe and five in the U.A.E.), versus 260 stores (106 in the Americas, 61 in Asia-Pacific, 55 in Japan and 33 in Europe and five in the U.A.E.) a year ago.

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U.S. Sees First Increase in Gold Jewelry Demand in 7 Years

Gold jewelry making a comeback.

Gold jewelry demand in the U.S. for the first quarter of 2013 grew by more than 5% year-over-year to reach a value of $986 million. This is the first increase in demand since the third quarter of 2005, the World Gold Council said Thursday.

The lower-end of the U.S. jewelry market rebounded considerably, the WGC in its quarterly Gold Demand Trends report, adding that it’s “a further positive sign of recovery in the U.S. economy, coinciding with a correction in the gold price over the course of the quarter.”

Meanwhile, the amount of gold used for the fabrication of jewelry worldwide increased by 12% year-over-year to 551 metric tons for the first quarter of 2013, worth a record value of $28.9 billion, according to the report.

The dramatic decline in the value of gold has led to an increase in demand, the WGC said in the report. However, that demand is largely limited to India and China, who continue to distance themselves from the rest of the world in their passion for gold jewelry. The two countries combined now account for 62% of gold jewelry demand, according to the report. The U.S. for the first time in more seven years saw a year-over-year increase in gold jewelry demand.

Other highlights of the report include:

* Gold jewelry demand surged by 19% in China to a record level, led by Chinese New Year gifting in January and a rebound in consumer sentiment, WGC said. This is despite new in leadership in China calling for less conspicuous consumption. Demand saw the largest increase in 24k gold jewelry, although demand for 18k gold jewelry also increased.

* In India, year-over-year demand grew by 15% and came just short of beating the fourth quarter 2012 record. However, that gain was compared a very soft first quarter of 2012.

* Meanwhile, gold jewelry demand in Italy and the U.K. fell dramatically, 12% and 7%, respectively, as difficult economic continues continue to lead consumers to purchase lower-karat gold and silver jewelry.

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Centurion 2013 Emerging Jewelry Designer Winners

“Ivy” earrings by Alessio Boschi with a detachable drop. Left view is with the drop and right view is without the drop. The leaves are diamonds with shaded green tsavorites in dark rhodium. The berries are purple sapphires and the twisted trunks are inertwined diamond lines with dangling chrome diopside. Leaf backs are handmade and invisibly set. Suggested retail price: $16,500.

Three designers from different countries were selected from among a record number of entries as the winners of the Centurion 2013 Emerging Designer Competition. 

The winners—Alessio Boschi of Australia, Erika Bertin of the United States, and Shar-Linn Liew of Thailand—were announced prior to the 2013 Centurion luxury jewelry tradeshow held February 3-5 in Scottsdakes, Ariz. All three designers made their U.S. tradeshow debut at Centurion where they received free exhibition space as part of winning the annual competition, now in its fifth year.

The competition drew almost 70 entries from luxury jewelry designers around the world. More than 300 retailers voted to narrow the field down to 12 finalists; the Centurion Board of Retail Advisors voted again to select the three winners.

Boschi of Lux2Lux Jewels, is a native of Italy who has spent time designing in his home country, Greece and Thailand before moving to Australia to work with pearl jewelry manufacturer, Autore, where he created the popular and critically acclaimed “Oceania,” “Ice and Fire,” and “Venezia” jewelry collections.

Rose gold medallion and ring inspired by a medieval incense diffuser top, and come with handmade double gold chain and white diamonds. Retail prices: Medallion chain, $9,755 for 18k and $5,815 for 10k; Ring, $4,985 for 18k and $2.790 for 10k.

 
Bertin of Alasia (erikabertin@yahoo.com) previously worked as a luxury brand builder in London before becoming a full-time jewelry designer. She moved to New York in 2000 to set up Arte Italiana, the US branch of Favero, as a partner to the owner. Favero jewelry found a responsive audience in the Americas and saw healthy and successful growth, becoming a recognized brand. Many of the Favero pieces distributed in the USA were either designed or merchandised by Bertin.

Sharart Design’s Shinto blue sapphire earrings are fully articulated. Gem content: blue sapphire (8.15ct.) and white diamond (0.71 ct.). Suggest retail price, $9.800.

Jewelry designer Shar-Linn Liew of Sharart Design grew up in Singapore and was exposed to designing as a young girl by her mother, who was a clothes designer. But it was her husband who exposed her to the world of gemstones and fine jewelry. After a two-year stint as a jewelry merchandiser at a TV jewelry network, Liew decided to focus on her own collection. Her pieces are handcrafted by her husband's jewelry manufacturing house. Her inspirations are constantly evolving around the designer’s Asian heritage blended with old European allure. 

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Double-Digit Decline in U.S. Gold Jewelry Demand

The high price of gold continues to have a detrimental impact on the worldwide jewelry market as demand in this sector for the precious metal fell by 6 percent, year-over-year, in the first quarter of 2012, the World Gold Council said Thursday. The value of jewelry demand, meanwhile, grew by 14 percent to $28.3 billion.

Gold jewelry demand was weaker in all but six countries and clearly reflects the year-over-year 22 percent increase in the average gold price of gold to 1,690.57, according to the WGC Gold Demand Trend report for the first quarter of 2012.

In the U.S., demand fell 10 percent to 17.6 tons. In addition to the high price of the precious metal, the report blames high gas prices and cautious consumers. In value terms, gold increased by 10 percent to $958.2 million.

In Italy, demand slid 14 percent to 3.5 tons “as the negative economic environment took its toll,” according to the report. In the U.K., demand dropped 4 percent to 3 tons.

India, the world’s largest consumer of gold and gold jewelry, was largely responsible for the worldwide decline, according to the report. An unexpected substantial increase in the import tax on gold and the introduction of an excise duty on gold jewelry resulted in a three-week countrywide strike among jewelers until the government agreed to end the excise duty. A weaker rupee also added to the decline.

Meanwhile, China dominated the jewelry market as demand increased 8 percent to 156.6 tons in the first quarter. China accounted for 30 percent of all demand for the period, making it the largest gold jewelry market for the third consecutive quarter.

Demand in Russia was also robust with a 28 percent increase in the first quarter to 20.4 tons, attributed partly to stock building among the trade. However, the repot notes that “historically low inflation, GDP growth, improving consumer confidence and real wage gold,” contributed greatly to the gains. “Gold remains the most popular metal of choice among Russian jewelry consumers.”

Overall, global gold demand in the first quarter fell by 5 percent to 1,097.6 tons, the WGC reports. “This decrease was largely to be expected given the introduction of import taxes in India and high gold prices,” the report states. “Demand for the quarter was underpinned by increased demand in China, continued central bank purchasing and inflows into exchange-traded funds.”

Gold demand value for the period increased 16 percent to $59.7 billion. Gold demand includes its use in jewelry, technology, investment and official sector institutions (such as world banks).

“China and India have seen continuing economic growth and whilst China’s economy is expected to slow, it will nonetheless surpass the rates of growth in the West,” said Marcus Grubb, managing director, Investment at the World Gold Council. “As we previously forecast it is likely China will become the largest source of demand for gold in 2012.”