Nine Timely Luxury Watch Gifts for the Holidays

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Caliber 1731 combines the complexity of a striking mechanism with the additional challenge of producing the thinnest minute repeater caliber and the thinnest minute repeater watch on the market—at just 3.90 and 8.09 mm thin respectively. It has a 65-hour power reserve, a silent flying strike governor, which steadies the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs. It is available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Buying a luxury watch as a gift can be a downright terrifying experience. The choices are near endless in this day and age.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Chronograph relies on two discs, one atop the other, to show not only the hours, but to also indicate whether it is day or night. This unusual time display is made possible by Montblanc’s caliber MB R220. The chronograph tallies 60 elapsed seconds and 30 elapsed minutes on rotating discs with motionless hands. It is available at Montblanc boutiques.

Fortunately, I put together a list of nine watches that cover a variety of mechanical variations, designs and lifestyle attributes. There are watches in all shapes, styles and prices. Some of the world’s most prestigious watch brands are represented as well as critically acclaimed independent brands. There are ultra thin watches. There are watches in line with a lifestyle pursuit, such as high-powered automobiles or world travel. Several watches on the list have fanciful complications. Then there are the timepieces that speak to history and heritage. There’s even a watch brand that’s made in America.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon boasts one of the biggest moonphase apertures on the market along with rich guilloché dials and three-dimensional big moon. The 42mm, 18k red gold case houses the Arnold & Son caliber A&S1512 mechanical hand-wound movement. It has a one day-deviation every 122 years, at which point a single push on the corrector will keep it in sync for another 122 years. It retails for $28,550.

Surely there is something on this short list that could be a perfect gift for that special man in your life.

Nomos Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit 5th Avenue watch was designed in Zurich built in its manufacturing facility in Glashütte, Germany, and dedicated to New York. It’s powered by the Nomos in-house caliber Xi. To view the time in another zone, press the button above the crown at 2 o’clock until the desired location is at 12 o’clock. The “New York” display is at the 3 o’clock marker in red typeface next to a 24-hour disc. It is available at Wempe stores worldwide, limited to 100 pieces. 

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Jaquet Droz Grande Heure GMT has 24 indexes in Arabic numerals set around a Grand Feu enamel dial make it easy to see all the hours of the day in two cities. The hands are designed in the form of a compass. The red hand indicates local time while the blued steel hand shows the time at the destination. When the two hands come together in the same time zone they merge into a single, bi-colored indication of the exact time. 

For the first time the Piaget Altiplano watch integrates a calendar and holds its place as the thinnest watch in the world in its category. The 40 mm watch has an 18k rose gold case set with 72 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1 ct). The 1205P ultra-thin automatic mechanical movement is the thinnest in the world (3 mm thick), with small seconds and date and a 22k rose-gold oscillating weight.

The Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome R92 has a stainless steel tonneau-shaped column wheel chronograph combines vintage movements with modern craftsmanship and design. The R92 movement was originally fabricated in the 1950s. It uses a swivel-pinion design to synchronize the chronograph components. The dial is exposed providing full view of the movement. It retails for $16,700.

Graham Silverstone “RennSport” Skeleton reflects the accuracy and efficiency of automobile mechanics, showcases all parts of the caliber G1790 chronograph movement. The 46 mm steel case has polished bevel horns. A lateral porthole on the case at 10 o’clock provides a view of the escapement and balance wheel. Limited to 250 pieces it retails for $14,580. 

Devon Tread 2 Shining is manufactured in Los Angeles. It runs on Devon’s distinctive Time Belt movement and powered by a lithium-polymer rechargeable battery that can power the movement for up to 28 days. It retails for $9,950.

Actress Gong Li is Piaget’s New Brand Ambassador

Gong Li adorned with Piaget Couture Précieuse jewelry.

Swiss luxury watchmaker and jeweler, Piaget, has named actress Gong Li as its new global brand ambassador, calling her an “icon of classic beauty, exceptional talent and steadfast dedication.”

Gong Li is best known internationally for her roles in the movies Raise the Red Lantern, which was nominated for an Oscar, and Farewell My Concubine. While starring as Jiu’er in Red Sorghum, she spent days lifting heavy water buckets on her shoulders, in order to experience the life of a rural woman she thought to depict truthfully. It was this type of “relentless pursuit of perfection, courage in face of adversity, and reinventing style of acting” that the luxury brand found appealing. 

“Movie is an important part of my life; I endeavor to do my best in understanding and rendering each character, as well as devoting myself with enthusiasm in the world of movie. This is the same for Piaget, the prominent brand that embraces challenge and seeks constant breakthrough, is a true creative precursor in the realm of Haute Joaillerie and Horlogerie.” Gong Li said. 

In a series of photographs captured by Chinese photographer Feng Hai, Gong Li is adorned with Piaget Couture Précieuse jewelry and haute couture gowns as if preparing for an appearance at an international film event. In one set of photos, she wears a classic golden mermaid-style gown with a lace folding fan-inspired necklace from the Piaget Couture Précieuse Collection along with a pair of earrings from the same collection. In another set of photos, she embraces a more modern look a white low-cut dress, a delicate tassel necklace with diamonds and pearls dangling at the ends, balanced by a pair of braided earrings.

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Some of the Best Luxury Watches from SIHH

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours

The recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) tradeshow in Geneva, featured only 16 luxury brands but their output of quality timepieces provided a showcase for innovation, craftsmanship and design that remain the hallmarks of the Swiss watch industry. Below are a few examples of some of the timepieces that were on display.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Calibre MB R220

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours
The hour display of this watch (top and above photos) is made possible by Montblanc’s new Calibre MB R220, which has a patented mechanism consisting of two rotating discs positioned one atop the other, to show not only the individual 12 hours, but to also indicate whether its day or night. The Arabic numerals 1 to 12 are on the upper disc, which is situated above the bicolor day/night disc. The 12-hour disc rotates continually, while the day/night disc turns in intervals and at variable speeds to produce the desired color change (blue for the night, black for the day) in the cut-out numerals. This motion is controlled with the aid of a Maltese cross-shaped mechanism consisting of two cam-like wheels. In addition to this double-disc mechanism, four other disc displays rotate. The day of the week is shown in a window at the 9 o’clock and the date appears in an aperture at the 3 o’clock. This is the latest version of the collection named after the inventor of the chronograph.  

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication
The German watch brand has developed a timepiece with a host of complications that include chiming mechanism with grand and small strikes; minute repeater; a monopusher type split-seconds chronograph, with minute counter and rattrapante function and jumping seconds accurate to a fifth of a second; perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month in four-year cycle; and moon phases. The movement is a Lange manufacture Calibre L1902, manually wound. The white enamel dial reveals a railway-track minute scale and the four characteristic, symmetrically arranged subsidiary dials. This exclusive collectors' item is housed in a 50mm pink gold case comes. It is available in a limited edition of six watches.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grand Complication
The mechanical heart of this 44mm timepiece is its three advanced functions, forming what is considered in the industry as the basis of a Grande Complication movement. Its traditional selfwinding movement combines minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar functions. It’s also equipped with a minute repeater mechanism, enabling it to sound the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. And it houses a perpetual calendar complication that also displays lunar cycles. It affords the possibility of performing timing operations and reading off intermediate or “split” times due to the split-second complication, which is an Audemars Piguet signature in its Grande Complication models. The selfwinding Calibre 2885 has 648 parts. It is available in a titanium case (pictured) or an 18K pink gold case. Both models are limited to three pieces each.

Richard Mille RM58-01 Tourbillon World Timer
The 12-year-old watch brand is an infant when it comes to the venerable world of the Swiss watch industry, but it has grown up at lightning speed with technical innovations and partnerships with athletes in sports ranging from track and field to soccer to auto racing. This manually winding movement has hours, minutes and a 10-day power reserve shown on an indicator at 2 o’clock. The caliber RM58-01, 34mm in diameter, is supported on a baseplate of grade 5 titanium, a material also utilized for the bridges. The tourbillon, positioned at 9 o’clock and oscillating at a frequency of 3Hz, is accommodated in a four-part case made from titanium and red gold. The shot-blasted, satin-brushed and polished rotating bezel bears the names of 24 world cities, symbols of the international 24 time zones on its brown upper flange. The RM 58-01 does not need any adjusting push-piece to change from one time zone to another. The time is set by rotating the bezel anticlockwise, making adjustment a quick operation. All the traveler needs to do is position the name of the city where he or she has just landed at 12 o’clock, which automatically sets local time and the time in the other 23 world cities due to the 24-hour scale engraved on the flange. The black and white disc distinguishes day from night for the user automatically, so there is no possibility of confusion. The timepiece, produced as a limited edition of 35 timepieces, was made in partnership with Jean Todt, a French motor sport executive, who wanted a watch to travel the world with. Profits from the sale of this watch will be transferred to two key initiatives close to Todt’s charities: the Global Campaign for Road Safety and the ICM Brain and Spine Institute, which he co-founded.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor
This deep grey watch is made of silicon, chosen for its low weight and its incomparable hardness. It is half the weight of titanium, which is half the weight of steel, yet it is four times harder. Silicon has a similar atomic structure to diamond and working with it requires just as much skilled expertise. The brand also boasts a technological advancement in which four carefully positioned sprung balances work in pairs to compensate immediately for the rate variations caused by the changes in position of the watch when worn. “What the tourbillon achieves during the course of a minute, the Excalibur Quatuor achieves instantly,” the brand says. A classic watch operating at a frequency of 4 Hz is considered to be highly precise. But the Excalibur Quatuor operates at a frequency of 16 Hz. As each balance oscillates four times per second, the frequency of the watch is multiplied by four as the balances do not oscillate simultaneously. The ticking of a classic watch is replaced by what which the brand describes as “the gentler sound of truly high precision.” The timepiece is limited to a production of three pieces. There is a pink gold version of the watch that has a run of 88 pieces.

Cartier Montre Rotonde Double Mystery Tourbillon
Cartier unveiled its new movement at SIHH: the 9454 MC Double Mystery Tourbillon, certified by the Geneva Seal. The flying tourbillon, which turns once on its own axis every 60 seconds, appears to be floating completely free in space, with no visible connection to any gear train. The illusion is complete when the same tourbillon cage performs a second rotation at a rate of one turn every five minutes. The slate-colored dial is made of galvanised, guilloché, silvered open-work grill. The watch hands are sword-shaped in blued steel. It’s all contained in a 45mm platinum case with the crown set with a sapphire cabochon.

Baume & Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar – Moon Phase, Blue Dial
This is one of a series of Clifton watches released by the Swiss watch brand at SIHH This version of the line, the 43 mm Clifton Complete Calendar, has a blue, sun satin-finished dial. The case back has been opened up to allow lovers of fine mechanics to observe the components of its automatic movement (Dubois Dépraz 9000). Its calendar display is mounted upon an alligator strap, which is closed by a triple folding clasp with security push-pieces.

Parmigiani Tonda Woodstock
In order to project a colorful and musical dynamism, the Swiss watch brand turned for the first time to the refined and delicate art of marquetry. This ancient process consists of cutting out and assembling veneers—wooden veneers in this case—on a flat surface in order to create a decoration for the timepiece. The Tonda Woodstock’s special dial is designed with a Gibson guitar motif with an American flag in wood marquetry.

Piaget Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater
Thin is in at Piaget and Emperador Coussin unveiled at SIHH shows it continues to set standards in its development of ultra-thin complications housed in ultra-thin cases. This 48mm 18k pink gold watch boasts the Piaget 1290P, which the brand says is world’s thinnest mechanical self-winding minute repeater movement (4.8 mm). The case itself is also considered the world’s thinnest at 9.4 mm. Details of the movement finishes include sunburst guilloché bridges, bridges hand-beveled and hand-drawn with a file, blackened and polished screws.

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Richemont Sales Up 21%, Profit Up 52%

Swiss luxury goods conglomerate, Compagnie Financière Richemont, said Friday that sales increased, year-over-year, for the first half of the fiscal year by 21 percent to €5.1 billion ($6.5 billion). By constant exchange rates sales grew 12 percent.

Profit for the period rose 52 percent to €1.08 billion ($1.37 billion); with operating profit up by 28 percent to €1.38 billion ($1.75 billion), benefiting from favorable currency movements, and gross profit up 24 percent to €3.31 billion ($4.2 billion). Operating margin gained 150 basis points to reach 27 percent.

The Geneva-based company cited “solid growth in all segments, regions and channels” along with favorable currency rates and Asian tourism in Europe for the strong performance.

Richemont owns many of the world’s best-known luxury brands (known as “maisons” by the company) including Cartier, Montblanc, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget. It also has wholesale businesses and owns the luxury retail website, Net-A-Porter.com. A list of its businesses can be found by following this link.

“The Group’s maisons benefited from favorable exchange rates effects, successful product launches as well as strong pricing power,” said Johann Rupert, Richemont executive chairman and CEO. “The increase in net profit was well above the prior period, reflecting both the growth in operating results and the non-recurrence of non-cash losses, which stemmed from the Swiss franc’s appreciation against the euro.”

He added, “Sales growth rates moderated, as evidenced by the October sales which grew by 12 percent at actual exchange rates. At constant exchange rates, they were 7 percent higher. Richemont is seeing good growth in Europe, supported by Asian tourism which is compensating for slower domestic Asia Pacific sales. Retail continued to lead wholesale, reflecting robust jewelry sales.”

Rupert did warn that sales and profits could slow as exchange rates will like be “less favorable” for the remainder of the fiscal year.

By region the company reported that sales in Europe accounted for 36 percent of overall sales as the region enjoyed good growth, with tourists driving the above-average increase. The highest growth rates were in the Maisons’ own boutiques in tourist destinations, including the Middle East. Europe’s reported a 23 percent growth in sales for the period to €1.85 billion ($2.35). At constant exchange rates, sales increased by 19 percent.

Asia Pacific remains the strongest region for Richemont but sales growth has slowed. The region accounted for 41 percent of the Group’s total, with Hong Kong and mainland China the two largest markets. “Sales growth in our maisons’ own boutiques in the region was well above the increase in sales to wholesale partners, partly reflecting the number of boutique openings in the last two years,” the company said. Asia reported a 22 percent growth in sales for the period to €2.1 billion ($2.67). At constant exchange rates, sales increased 9 percent.

After two years of what the company termed as “outstanding sales,” the Americas region reported that sales grew 16 percent to €698 million ($877 million). However, at constant exchange rates, growth was 4 percent. The region represented 14 percent of overall sales for Richemont.

Japan, which Richemont lists separately, saw what the company terms as “continued momentum” in sales in all retail segments. The struggling market saw its sales increase by 18 percent to €448 million ($570 million). At constant exchange rates the increase was 4 percent.

Its group of jewelry brands saw sales grow by 20 percent to €2.6 billion ($3.3 billion) with operating results of €958 ($1.21 billion), a 31 percent increase. Operating margin gained 280 basis points to reach 36.7 percent.

Meanwhile, its specialist watchmakers group reported that sales increased 25 percent to €1.46 billion ($1.85 billion) with operating results of €470 ($592 million), a 51 percent increase. Operating margin gained 560 basis points to reach 32.2 percent.

Montblanc, the German brand known for its luxury writing instruments but also manufactures and sells luxury leather goods, jewelry and watches, is listed separately by Richemont. It reported that its sales increased 10 percent to €368 million ($468 million) with operating results of €53 million ($67.3 million), a 2 percent decline. Operating margin lost 180 basis points to reach 14.4 percent. Richemont said that Montblanc doesn’t benefit much from sales in tourist destinations.

For its other businesses—which includes Richemont’s Fashion and Accessories businesses, Net-a-Porter and watch component manufacturing activities—results are as follows:

* Fashion & Accessories maisons saw double-digit sales growth and operating profits were in line with the prior period at €25 million.

* Sales growth at Net-a-Porter is “normalizing” but continues to exceed the Group’s average. Net-a-Porter reduced its losses during the period, but generated a positive operating cashflow.

* Losses at the Group’s watch component manufacturing facilities were in line with the comparative period.

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Piaget Produces Melody Gardot Video, 'La Vie En Rose'

Melody Gardot adorned in Piaget Rose Collection jewelry.

Grammy-nominated jazz singer, Melody Gardot, is a bit of an enigma and prodigy all rolled into a voice that has been often described as smooth, smoky and sultry. She seems to hum words and bend and roll melodic notes in a voice that is strong and elegant even when it is at a whisper.

The Philadelphia native’s remarkable story has been repeated in every article and appearance she’s ever made. At the age of 19 the bike she was riding was hit by a car and she suffered severe head and spinal injuries and a broken pelvis. Among her long-term problems are memory loss, hypersensitivity to light and loss of her sense of time. A piano player in bars prior to her accident, her doctor suggested music as therapy. She was bedridden for about year and taught herself guitar while lying on her back. She could no longer tolerate the louder music she played prior to her accident so she started writing quiet, traditional jazz songs.

Her stunning sophisticated bohemian look that is constantly changing adds to her mystique. She’s forced to walk with a cane and must wear sunglasses all the time. In many photo shoots and videos, these items serve as props.

Piaget Rose Collection ring.

Piaget tapped into this unusual elegance in song, spirit and appearance by making her the newest ambassador for the luxury watch and jewelry brand. Gardot is promoting the Piaget Rose Collection—a line of diamond jewelry inspired by the shape of a rose. It has a starting price of $1,900 but also includes diamond and precious stone pieces priced up to several hundred thousand of dollars.

Gardot recently released “The Absence,” and is on a worldwide tour promoting the CD as well as Piaget. As an added feature, The Geneva-based company produced an additional song and supporting video of Gardot singing "La Vie En Rose." It appears on a deluxe edition of the new CD. The video is below (After starting the video, please click on the full-screen box on the lower right corner to get the full effect of the video).



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