High Jewelry Collection Represents 400 Years Of Family Ownership

This complex, open-work necklace from the Medici collection required what the jewelers described as "new articulation systems" to ensure its beauty and comfort.

The Parisian high jewelry house, Mellerio dits Meller, has spent 2013 celebrating a landmark for longevity that is rarely, if ever, achievable. The luxury jeweler, whose client list over the centuries includes nearly all of European royalty, has been operating under the ownership of the same family for 400 years.

A gold corsage tops this brooch where emeralds and pearls move freely.

It is considered to be the oldest jeweler in the world and the oldest family-owned company in Europe. It has the original books and paperwork to back up those claims in its rich archives, which are kept in its 9 Rue de la Paix boutique and workshop.

The Medici diamond tiara.

The firm, now owned and operated by the 14th generation of the same family, specializes in hand-made jewelry, almost all of it created on premise. The company was founded by the Mellerio family in 1613 in the rural region of northern Italy that borders Switzerland. It was created because of an act of royalty. Specifically, Marie de’ Medici, Queen of France, granted special privileges to the Mellerio family by royal decree, which allowed the family firm to trade throughout much of Europe.

The same diamond tiara shows its versatility by converting into a necklace.

The family began trading in Versailles in 1777, where it attracted the patronage of its most famous client, Marie Antoinette. In 1796, the firm moved to Rue Vivienne, Versailles, retaining the patronage of the Empress Josephine. The firm then moved to Paris eventually settling at 9 Rue de la Paix.

Medici Lush emerald ring

The company opened a second shop in Madrid in 1850 to service the Spanish royal family, including Queen Isabella II. It has a long close relationship with the Dutch Royal Court. It also operates in Luxembourg and Japan.

Medici Lush eight-flower ring

To celebrate its milestone the company created a high jewelry collection named after its founding patron, Marie de’ Medici, which represents the grand history of the royal jeweler.

To create the Medici collection, the family looked into its past using its archives. They also invited well-known jewelry designer, Edéenne, a Canadian native who now works in Paris. She created modern interpretations of jewelry inspired by the old drawings.

The result is a collection of pieces inspired by nature that are sensual, complex and at the same time easy to wear. There are openwork pieces and items made with “grey” gold. There are pieces that are rough in texture, recreating an antique feel. And of course there’s a tiara. In this case one that converts into a necklace, which harkens back to 19th Century jewelry usage.

The company also released a book, in French, chronicling its history, Mellerio dits Meller: Joaillier des Reines, by Vincent Meylan, published by Éditions Télémaque.

I will be writing more about this remarkable company in the coming year.

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Last Chance To Give A Special Holiday Jewelry Gift With These Items From De Beers and Alexandra Mor

De Beers Phenomena Glacier seven-row diamond bracelet

I’ve already written jewelry and watch gift guides for procrastinators. This is for you super procrastinators as we enter the final weekend before Christmas. I'm here to let you know there is still hope. These jewelry pieces from De Beers and designer Alexandra Mor would certainly make a loved one happy and keep you in good graces for 2014. 

De Beers Diamond Jewellers, the retail partnership between the mining giant and the luxury conglomerate LVMH, has ventured into the high jewelry category in a big way with its Phenomena collection.

The diamond and white gold jewelry collection is made up of five lines (“Crest,” “Frost,” “Glacier,” “Reef” and “Stream”) that provide differing artistic interpretations of water in its natural state. Each line consists of a full set of jewelry. These are one-of-kind pieces and in fact when I viewed the collection when it first arrived in mid-November one of the items was missing because it was sold. I was told a few others were under discussion.

The company describes the collection as a modern take on traditional jewelry. These are mostly large, complex and well-crafted pieces with extremely high-carat value made with combinations of exceptionally cut diamonds. Yet these pieces are sleek, streamlined and sophisticated highlighted by sensual curves throughout. The white on white palette adds to its modernity. Despite the size and weight of many of the pieces, they are easy to wear because of articulations in the metal that hug the skin.

The collection is available at the De Beers New York boutique until January 1.

Alexandra Mor cushion-cut lilac tanzanite and diamond ring

Jewelry designer Alexandra Mor has made quite a name for herself in a short time with her “demi-couture” brand of jewelry, which consists of limited editions, one-of-kind and custom-made pieces from her New York workshop. A couple of her signature characteristics include the use of large colored gemstones, “floating” diamond melee and knife-edge wire trim for her well crafted pieces.

Mor was one of a handful of international jewelry designers chosen to create a piece of jewelry for a bespoke jewelry collection curated by Gemfields (an emerald and amethyst mining and marketing company). The collection was unveiled in March. Two months earlier, she received the Fashion Group International Rising Star Award in the fine jewelry category.

For the holidays Mor has available a one-of-a-kind ring centered with a 25.78 carat cushion-cut lilac tanzanite surrounded with 3.67 carats of step-cut baguette diamonds, set with 0.90 carat 1mm “floating” diamond melee and knife-edged wire. The gems are platinum set on 18k yellow gold with Alexandra Mor logo gallery and signed by her.

Mor has assured me that the piece is available and can be shipped anywhere in the world before the holidays end. Contact the company directly at 888-944-2237; 212-921- 4391; or at contact@alexandramor.com

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Martin Katz Celebrates New York With Jewelry Collection and Hotel Suite

Pear-shaped rose-cut cognac diamonds of 6.43 carats surrounded by a mirco-set border of cognac and white diamonds; topped with two kite diamonds of 4.03 carats, four round brilliant diamonds of 0.95 carats and anchored by 10 channel set baguettes.

Los Angeles-based luxury jeweler designer Martin Katz has done something that may seem a bit outside his toolbox by designing a 5,000-square-foot luxury suite at the renovated Towers at The New York Palace hotel. To mark the opening of the space, he also released a colorful and architecturally driven New York-themed jewelry collection.

The first floor salon of the Martin Katz Jewel Suite, one of two signature suites as part of the $140 million renovation of The New York Palace hotel in Midtown Manhattan.

“There’s nothing like it in New York,” he said of the Midtown Manhattan hotel suite.

Known as the “Martin Katz Jewel Suite,” it includes a two-story, 20-foot “Waterfall of Diamonds” chandelier, along a grand stairway, a 10-seat dining room, an indoor-outdoor entertainment space with a wood burning fireplace and outside whirlpool. The living room on the 53rd floor has 15-foot windows with a view of both the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building.

A 13.18-carat oval Mexican fire opal serves as a center stone of this ring extended by flames of green tsavorite garnets and orange-red sapphires.

Nearly everything in the Art-Deco themed space was designed or specified by Katz (in collaboration with interior design and architectural firm, BBG-BBGM) and represents his 25-year history as a jewelry designer. Original artworks (photographs, paintings and other works) throughout the space represent some of his iconic jewelry lines. For example, his circle pendant necklace motif was used as a dome on a light fixture and a glass etching in a circular window. A rotating collection of his jewelry, many loaned by clients, are displayed gallery style in the foyer. Lavender runs throughout the space in the fabrics and wall treatments.

The terrace has a rare view of both the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building and has a hot tub (not shown). 

As Katz showed me around the suite I asked him how difficult it was to branch out into interior design. “It was easy,” he said. “Just like designing my home.”

The price of the suite matches the sky-high view at $25,000 per night. However, there are some unusual extras, such as a Martin Katz microband ring and, if desired, a free consultation with the jeweler. There’s also an “Ultimate Proposal” package starting at $50,000 a night that includes a private consultation with Katz for the creation of a custom-designed engagement ring and/or wedding bands, and a private dining experience for two.

Vintage tassel style earrings with two cushion rose cut diamonds weighing 7.39cts, two round diamonds weighing 1.15cts, 40 baguette diamonds and microset with 62 diamonds.  Set in 18K white gold.

To coincide with the suite being opened to the public, Katz has released a new line of jewelry using architectural shapes and Art Deco themes based on the New York skyline.

Katz is known for his high-quality diamond jewellery, pioneering micro pavé settings, and for his stackable “Microbrand” rings. However, during the past few years he has been using a variety of colored gems and this collection shows this.

The grand stairway with the 20-foot-high “Waterfall of Diamonds” chandelier and gallery style showcases that contain a rotating collection of Martin Katz jewelry.

The details of the work, such as the fine micro pavé settings and the unusual-shaped gems are among the signatures of Katz’s jewelry.

“I approach things for true design and without concern for the difficulty and cost of making it. I become really picky with the stones I choose and even pickier with how to mount them,” he says. “What I come up with is something that reflects a deep passion and vision. I’m not completely sure what I’m looking for but I know it when I get there.”

Triangle shaped black opal and diamond pave' drop earrings set in blackened 18K white gold; two pear shape stained glass opals weighing 4.31cts and microset with 172 diamonds. 

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A 17.56-carat pale blue Burmese sapphire is accented with two trapezoid diamonds and microset with white diamonds and blue sapphires. 

Luxury Jewelry Holiday Gifts For Procrastinators

Best-known as Angelina Jolie’s jewelry design partner, Robert Procop has created a colorful interpretation of Paris’ most famous monument, the Eiffel Tower. The diamond and gem expert, and luxury jeweler created a ring made of white gold and amethyst topped with a 50.83-carat aquamarine. The Eiffel Tower ring is available at, Robert Procop private locations in Beverly Hills, Geneva and Hong Kong.

There’s only eight shopping days left before Christmas and you still have no idea what to give your loved one. It’s difficult to go wrong with luxury jewelry as a gift for the holidays. However, choosing that will make your loved one swoon is difficult because tastes in fine baubles are personal and there are endless choices available for every need.

This one-of-kind fringe necklace by Graff has 69.40-carats of diamonds and 108.10-carats of rubies. The price is available upon request at Graff Diamonds boutiques.

The 10 pieces of jewelry I provide include one-of-a-kind high jewelry creations, pieces that can be worn throughout the day and fine designer pieces. They include items made of diamonds, colored gems and pearls. There’s even a colored-enhanced diamond ring.

Emerald and diamond earrings from gem and jewelry company, Omi Privé, are handcrafted with 13.06 total carats of pear-shaped emeralds accented with 1.05 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in platinum. The suggested retail price is $225,000. Visit www.omiprive.com to find a retailer.

Prices range from “If you have to ask” to more affordable pieces. When available I listed the price and where the item can be purchased. Hopefully these gifts ideas can help you procrastinators buy something appropriate before it’s too late. I provided the price and availability for most of the pieces.

The Exclusive Collection Double Strand Tahitian Pearl Necklace by Mastoloni is made of Tahitian Pearls (12-14mm) secured with a diamond encrusted clasp set with 18k white gold. It has a suggested retail price of $42,500. To find a retailer, visit www.mastoloni.com.

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The Ruby Divine Ring by Martin Katz features a 2.56-carat natural cushion shape ruby microset with 336 round diamonds and 26 round rubies set in 18k white gold. Price is available upon request at the Martin Katz Beverly Hills boutique.

Amethyst and diamond earrings by jewelry designer and manufacturer, Miiori, are centered with two amethysts stones (8.19-carats) and 5.73cts of white diamonds set in 18k white gold. It retails for $17,275.

Venetian Rose Windows Earrings by Italian jewelry designer, Bizzotto, are made of 18k white and rose gold, diamonds and pink sapphires. Suggested retail price is $8,740.

The Petales Entrelaces Petits Pétales bracelet from Montblanc’s Princess Grace collection is a delicate and discreet pink gold piece of jewelry that can be throughout the day and for any occasion. It is available at Montblanc boutiques throughout the world.

The Etoile de Vie Ring by Mauboussin features a pair of 18k white gold stars, one topped with white mother of pearl alongside a second covered in pavé diamonds. It retails for $2,100 and is available at the Mauboussin boutique on Madison Avenue, New York.

Natural pink diamonds are among the most sought after in the world. Fiamma Jewelry has developed a proprietary technology to create color-enhanced pink diamonds. The Beverly ring is centered with a 1.3-carat cushion-cut diamond surrounded by 82 round brilliant pink and white diamonds mounted in 14k white and pink gold. It retails for $6,799. To find retailers visit fiammajewelry.com.

30% Increase in Customers at Treasures Hangzhou Jewelry Fair

The second edition of Treasures Hangzhou ended with a 30 percent increase in visitors, according to UBM Asia, who owns and operates the high-end jewelry show for consumers.

More than 1,200 high-net-worth consumers attended the three-day event at the Hyatt Regency Hangzhou, in eastern China near Shanghai.

“The increase in attendance numbers is certainly encouraging because it not only confirmed the strength of the high-end jewelry market in Eastern China, but also the healthy development of the Hangzhou Fair,” commented Joe Ho, UBM Asia’s Deputy Jewellery Fairs Manager for China.

Treasures Hangzhou is jointly organized by UBM China Holdings Limited, UBM China (Guangzhou) Co Ltd, the Jewelry Jade Industry Association of Zhejiang and Beijing San Arts Import & Export Co Ltd. 

The fair provides a platform where consumers can purchase jewelry and gemstones from suppliers from various parts of the world. It featured about 30 high-end jewelry exhibitors from five countries and regions, namely: China, Hong Kong region, Sri Lanka, Taiwan region and Thailand. The exhibitors brought with them jewelry, diamonds, gemstones, pearls and jadeite jewelry.

During the fair, professional seminars were to held on jadeite and high-end jewelry, which including jewelry investment opportunities.

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Famous Bulgari Jewelry on Display in San Francisco

“Tubogas” choker, 1974; two-color gold with Greek silver coins. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 404 N607. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

By Maria Ling,
Assistant Editor

One more reason to spend the holidays in San Francisco is the ongoing exhibition of Bulgari jewelry at the de Young Museum. 

“The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950 - 1990,” is an exhibition of approximately 150 pieces created by the renowned Italian jeweler over four decades. It highlights jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and includes pieces from the personal collections of Elizabeth Taylor, Ellen Barkin and other famous names. The exhibition will run through February 17, 2014.

Sautoir, 1969, platinum with sapphires and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 6675 N2170 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Bracelets, 1955 and 1959; platinum with diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Ellen Barkin. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 4924 B527, 4925 B528 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Works in the exhibition also include those from the 1970s and 80s, a particularly innovative period for the jeweler and one influenced by Pop Art and other contemporary trends. 

“Parentesi” parure, ca. 1982; Gold with diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 5063 E173, 5068 N1500, 5072 B508 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

“The hard-edged designs of the 1970s included a whole range based on the Stars-and-Stripes motif, while in the 1980s the Parentesi collection had a smoother, modular, almost architectural presence; both show how the jeweler could lead in new directions with a strong sense of design,” said Martin Chapman, curator in charge of European Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

“Bib” necklace, 1965; Gold with emeralds, amethysts, turquoise, and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Lyn Revson. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 401 N565. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte

Bulgari’s successful cultivation of prominent patrons and movie stars like Sophia Loren, Ingrid Bergman, and perhaps most notably, Elizabeth Taylor, has long been a key aspect of the jeweler’s reputation. 

To help explore the cultural context in which these objects were made, the exhibition will include sketches, photographs, and other archival materials that help to reveal an intersection of celebrity, design and fine craftsmanship.

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Met Museum to Sell Exclusive Jewelry Designed by JAR

JAR Lilac Brooches, 2001; diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver and gold. From a private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari, courtesy of JAR, Paris.

To coincide with highly anticipated Jewels by JAR exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the museum has announced that the famous jewelry artist has created a small collection of jewelry for the exhibition that will be available for purchase. 

The items include eight pairs of earrings and two watches ranging in price from $2,000 to $7,500. These pieces will be available exclusively at the Museum through the close of the exhibition. 

The museum, probably at the request of the renowned jewelry designer, will not have photographs available of the items for sale until November 18. The picture above will be one of the pieces in the exhibition and not for sale at the Special Exhibition and Mezzanine Gallery Shops. 

The exhibition Jewels by JAR will run from November 20 through March 9, 2014. The exhibition features more than 400 works by Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR. Jewels by JAR is the first JAR retrospective in the United States and the first at the Metropolitan Museum devoted to a contemporary artist of gems.

Born in New York and educated at Harvard, Rosenthal moved to Paris soon after graduation and began to experiment with jewelry making. He opened JAR in 1978 on the Place Vendôme, in the same space he occupies today. 

“JAR jewels quickly became known for their unique design, the exquisite quality of the gemstones, and their remarkable craftsmanship—but above all for their fearless beauty,” the museum said in a statement. “Rosenthal’s extraordinary, one-of-a-kind creations place him among the ranks of history’s greatest jewelers.” 

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Luxury Jeweler Mauboussin Brings ‘French Chic’ to US

Thierry Chaunu, Mauboussin North America CEO, is charged with reintroducing the luxury jewelry brand to a new audience in the US. Here, he demonstrates the technique of tying a ribbon on the hatbox-shaped package that customers take home. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Thierry Chaunu appears as if he is at home sitting in an oversized red chair with a white polka-dot pattern. The French native says he feels as if he has returned to his roots at the French luxury jewelry brand, Mauboussin.

In August, Chaunu was hired as the North American CEO of the company with its flagship store at Place Vendôme and a four-story US flagship on Madison Avenue where we spoke earlier this week.

The entrance of the Mauboussin Madison Avenue boutique. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

He talks excitedly about the introducing the brand to fashion-conscious women and educating consumers in the US, Canada and the Caribbean on the history of the company.

“Here in America I think people will develop a true appreciation of the history of the brand,” Chaunu said.

Mauboussin was founded in 1827 in Paris and in the 1940s moved its store to Place Vendôme. In the early to mid 20th Century, the company catered to European royalty and also Hollywood stars such as Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo. During this time the company had a boutique in Madison Avenue in New York about 10 blocks away from its current location. Its Art Deco jewelry from the period continues to be a staple look in its current designs.

Mauboussin Festival Necklace featuring the Mauboussin star logo. This diamond necklace is available in 18k white gold or platinum. 

In addition, its logo of a star that appears to be in flight is a constant theme in its boutique and jewelry designs. The branding extends to the packaging the customers take home, which are in the shape of hatboxes. This harkens back to its 20th Century heydays, however, the design is thoroughly modern with the star logo appearing like a flock of black birds pointing upwards, gradually turning the top of the white box to black.

The brand is well known in France where there are about 30 boutiques and hundreds of points of sale. It also has a strong presence in Singapore, Japan, Morocco and Dubai.

The bridal suite is bathed in layers of white with crinoline tufting on the ceiling, and padded and feathered wall finishes. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In 2008, the company, which hasn’t had a presence in the US since the Second World War, opened a grand four-story boutique on Madison Avenue near 63rd Street. Elaborate modern paintings, sculptures and furnishings (such as the polka dot chairs) are scattered throughout the building. The third floor bridal suite is bathed in layers of white with crinoline tufting on the ceiling, padded white wall finishes and thick white carpeting. The fourth floor used for entertaining has a full kitchen and bar. The first floor main retail space has the words amour toujours (love always), in graffiti style red paint on a white, brick wall above caricatures of what looks like snowmen and snowwomen in top hats and fancy dresses from the early 20th Century. The jewelry and watches are housed inside what the brand describes as “treasure boxes,”—sleek and modern dark wood boxes that stand on top of long, thin legs.

Sleek, modern "treasure boxes," which in this instance contains timepieces, are one of the design details of the Mauboussin boutique. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

While a great deal of money went into the location of the store on one of the priciest retail districts in the world and its design, it appears little actually went into marketing and advertising.

Chaunu is working on a number of ways to bring the brand a larger audience. The French native and longtime US citizen is a veteran of the luxury jewelry and watch industry and has worked for some of the world’s most prestigious brands, including Cartier, Chopard and Leviev. In fact, Chaunu says he considers Mauboussin a bit of a homecoming as he began his career with Cartier, another jewelry tenant at Place Vendôme.

The 18k Alessandra Ring with a a 1-carat round brillant diamond, GVS quality, and flanked by diamond baguettes.

He is focusing on finding the right product mix and retail environments to introduce the brand throughout North America. The details of how this will be done haven’t been determined and he is open to just about anything. However, he will focus on self-purchasing women.

“Our goal is to penetrate the US and go after the fashion conscious fine jewelry buyer who is into style and design and reach out to them with this Parisian chic appeal,” he says.

He has been traveling throughout North America trying to find retail partners. He is talking with independent jewelry retailers and department stores. It could take the form of having pieces as part of store’s larger display having a branded space inside a store (“shop in shops”). He also said branded boutiques in other cities may be in the mix.

18K white gold Solitaire Star Chance of Love Ring with diamond pave. It is available with a diamond from 0.10-carat to 1-carat.

Over the years the brand increased and diversified its product lines to match the changing consumer. No longer just for royalty and Hollywood, the brand produces pieces that are as fashionable as they are refined in price points ranging from less than $1,000 to well into the six figures.

In addition to its logo appearing on many designs, the company focuses on platinum and white gold, said Laurence Bouard, the director of the Madison Avenue store. Other than that, gemstones, diamonds and other materials are used freely in its designs. Within this framework, there’s a great deal of versatility with each design in terms of the sizes and types of gemstones that can be used.

In France, by far its largest market, Chaunu said the company has been successful with pop up stores and other retail programs to attract a larger, younger audience.

Chaunu explains that while he has hit the ground running since his hiring two months ago, he is being patient, looking for the right mix of products with the right retailers.

“I don’t know how this will play out but it’s a logical development for a brand,” he says. “I’m taking a cautious, step-by-step approach and develop a presence where it makes sense…. You don’t want to rush, rush, rush. You need all the ingredients to come together.”

Like most brands, the company also has other product lines, such as eyewear and very popular fragrances for women and men. However, aggressive promotion of these products will be done down the line. For now, Chaunu says the focus is on jewelry.

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Winning Jewelry Designs From 2014 AGTA Spectrum Awards

Best of Show: 'Tropical Storm' Ring by James Currens of J.W. Currens. Platinum ring is centered with a 22.10-carat emerald surrounded by swirling patterns of diamonds (11.47 ctw.). This piece also took first place in the Classical category.

Colored gemstone jewelry took center stage Monday as the American Gem Trade Association announced the winners of its annual Spectrum Awards competition and allowed the press to view nearly all of the entries at an undisclosed location in New York. 

Best Use of Color: Erica Courtney's 18k yellow gold earrings feature boulder opals (22.84 ctw.) and fire opals (2.62 ctw.) accented with orange sapphires (1.75 ctw.) and Paraiba tourmalines (.70 ctw.). 

Lined up on tabletops in an unadorned room was a variety of pieces representing the wealth of diversity and creativity of the worldwide jewelry industry. The competition and showcase, in its 30th year, is organized by the American Gem Trade Association, a North American trade organization representing the colored gem and cultured pearl industries. This competition is by far the largest and most prestigious for those who create with natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls.

Best Use of Platinum and Color: "Coleman's Smokey Blues" earrings by Deirdre Featherstone of Featherstone Design feature cushion-cut blue spinels (3.86 ctw.) and lavender spinels (4.02 ctw.) accented with multi-colored sapphires, garnets, tourmalines and diamonds.

The AGTA Spectrum Awards serves as the closest thing in the jewelry industry to gauge fashion trends. Unlike the other industries, the production cycle involving jewelry is much slower. Gather the materials, building the pieces and distributing them takes time. Plus, fine jewelry of the quality on display at the Spectrum Awards is designed to be a long-term purchase—even an investment. Finally, these pieces are largely created by individuals and small firms. They are more inclined to reflect a personal style rather than international fashion trends. These pieces, particularly the winners, will help set the standard for the coming year. 

1st Place Fashion Forward: Sterling and 18K yellow gold 'Robot Heart' necklace BY Katey Brunini OF K. Brunini Jewels. This extremely large piece features a 1363.96-carat heart-shaped opal accented with Diamonds (1.53 ctw.). The heart lights up in several patterns.

As far as trends do go there were a few. The mixing of colors seemed more dramatic this year. The best example of this is Erica Courtney’s 18k yellow gold earrings (second picture) with its mix of boulder opals, fire opals, orange sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines. 

Best Use of Pearls: 18K white gold drop earrings by Anil Maloo, Baggins, Inc., that feature 32 Japanese Akoya cultured pearls accented with round brilliant Diamonds (4.43 ctw.). It was also the winner of the Bridal Wear category.

Pearl jewelry showed more variety. There were necklaces made with carved pearls and multicolored pearls. For bridal, white is still the way to go but Anil Maloo, who took first place in the “Bridal Wear” category, managed to mix shades with drop earrings in a cage design using white gold and white diamonds with white Japanese Akoya cultured pearls peeking out through the openings of the cage (pictured above).

Business/Day Wear - 1st Place: 22K and 18K yellow gold "Blue Waters" necklace with opal doublets and diamonds (1.86 ctw.) by Jonathan Lee Rutledge of Jonathan Lee Rutledge, Inc. 

The one trend that involves color has been going on for so long now that it’s difficult to still describe it as a trend. Obviously color was always part of the mix in jewelry. However, during the global recession, jewelry designers and manufacturers were looking for ways to create less expensive jewelry with high design. One way was to creatively add color through a mix of less expensive gemstones to offset the spike in gold prices and more expensive diamonds. 

Evening Wear - 1st Place: Platinum and white gold "Blue Fin" ring by Leon Mege of Leon Mege, Inc. This ring features a 12.75 ct. Paraiba Tourmaline cabochon accented with diamonds.

This has created an explosion of creativity in all price points that continues today and now serves as a dominate part of fine jewelry design.

Men's Wear - 1st Place: 14K white and 18K yellow gold men's lapel pin by Mark Schneider of Mark Schneider Design. This lapel pin features carved black Jade accented with white Diamonds (.28 ctw), Rubies (.04 ctw.), and cognac and yellow diamonds (.99 ctw.).

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Mouawad Designs $10M Victoria’s Secret Royal Fantasy Bra

Candice Swanepoel models the $10 million bra.

The $10 million Victoria’s Secret Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt designed by Mouawad will be worn by Victoria’s Secret Angel Candice Swanepoel. The bejeweled bra will be unveiled in the 2013 Victoria’s Secret Dreams & Fantasies Catalogue as well as at The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show airing December 10 on the CBS television network.

The Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt features more than 4,200 precious gems from around the world including rubies, diamonds, and yellow and blue sapphires. Handset in 18k gold, the bra is completed with a 52-carat, pear-shaped center ruby.

The luxury jeweler said it was inspired by the “colorful, wild and trend-setting” 1960s “when models like Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and Patty Boyd ruled the runways and dominated the covers of Vogue, Vanity Fair and Harper's Bazaar.” The jewelry on the Royal Fantasy Bra and Belt also used the British Royal Crown Jewels as an inspiration with diamonds, rubies and sapphires in a patriot display of red, white and blue. 

This will be the first time Swanepoel will wear the bra. Since 2001 when Supermodel Heidi Klum wore the first Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra, it has been a tradition for the lingerie and beauty products retailer. Other supermodels that have worn fantasy bras over the years include Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks, Selita Ebanks, and Gisele Bündchen.

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‘If you have a piece of nice jewelry you should really enjoy it and wear it every day,’ Coffee with JNN: Dennis Chan of Qeelin

Dennis Chan (left) describing Qeelin's new "King & Queen" collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

As I walked into the sun-filled grand ballroom of Club Lusitano, a Portuguese heritage club in Hong Kong’s Central district, the Qeelin press conference was already underway. What I didn’t expect was a three course formal western style lunch that included New Zealand sole and a cheesecake with mixed berries.

On a stage speaking enthusiastically in Chinese was Dennis Chan, the creative director and co-founder of the luxury jewelry brand. Towering over him is a model dressed in a long formal black dress wearing pieces of the just released jewelry from Qeelin’s “King & Queen” collection. Chan is dressed in a crisp black suit and white shirt with the collar unbuttoned. On his neck is a dragon pendant from the new collection. His shoes are the showstopper, a tiger-themed (I believe) print with gold-colored studs in the back. When I ask him about the shoes he just laughs and says they’re Italian and they matched his clothes.

Dennis Chan's Italian shoes. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Afterward, Chan went from table to table with another tall model dressed in a formal full-length red dress discussing the individual pieces in rapid-fire Chinese.

Dennis Chan demonstrating Phoenix necklace at Qeelin press conference. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

When compared to its peers in the international luxury jewelry world, Qeelin is different in several ways. It’s a relatively small and young company and it’s headquartered in Asia, not Europe.

The Hong Kong-based company combines traditional Chinese themes with French craftsmanship, a design-first philosophy, the use of precious materials and a bit of whimsy. Not yet 10 years old, the brand has 14 boutiques in China, Hong Kong and Europe; and other points-of-sale in Singapore, Tokyo and Europe.

18k rose gold, diamond pavé and ruby bracelet, part of Qeelin's King & Queen collection. The ring has a dragon head (shown) and phoenix head, which represent King and Queen, respectively.

While the company has European influences and distribution, it is focused on the China and Asian markets. This is precisely why French luxury conglomerate Kering (formerly PPR) purchased a majority stake in the relatively small and little-known brand. The December, 2012, acquisition surprised many observers.

“Qeelin is a small brand, but with strong growth potential. We focus much more on the brand’s ability to grow rather than on its current size,” said Alexis Babeau, Kering managing director. “As examples, Balenciaga or Bottega Veneta were very small brands too when we bought them back in 2001. Look at them now…. Qeelin is well positioned to tap the growth potential of the Asian market.”

Qeelin Dragon and Phoenix ring (with the phoenix head shown) made of 18k yellow gold, diamond pavé and rubies.

I had finished my work at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair so being in the city provided me the opportunity to attend the press conference. Afterward, Chan and I sat for coffee and a short discussion about Qeelin and its future.

Chan said Hong Kong and China are Qeelin’s biggest markets; followed by Europe and Ukraine. “We have a lot of followers,” he said. “They collect everything we have.”

With the Kering acquisition, the boutique brand will have the ability to grow at a rapid pace. Chan said the company will open six to seven stores in China soon. However, he stresses that expansion won’t be rushed.

“We are expanding quite steadily, (but) we try not to expand and suddenly to be very big because it takes time for a luxury brand to grow,” the Hong Kong resident said. “But I think we have our own position in the industry … we rely a lot on design and craftsmanship and at the same time a lot of our jewelry could really touch people’s hearts.”

Chan said that the differences between Qeelin and its European brand counterparts are its advantages.

“If you look at Qeelin, you will find that it is very different,” he said. “We are not like Cartier and Van Cleef who have a long history. We’re a young brand. The interesting thing is we try to bring out the charm of Chinese design. It is traditional but it’s very much hip and fashionable.”

Phoenix necklace made of 18k white gold, diamond pave and rubies. The wings move.

Specifically, the brand creates modern, fashionable versions of traditional Chinese images. For example, its King & Queen line is based on variations of the Dragon (king) and the Phoenix (queen). The collection of rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings are made of 18k white and rose gold with diamond pavé and touches of rubies. In some cases the parts move, such as the wings on the Phoenix. The jewelry is light and lively and designed to be worn daily.

“The jewelry in my point of view shouldn't be very heavy and you should enjoy it,” he said. “Like my mom. She collects a lot of jewelry but then it always ends up in the safe. She’ll bring it out one or two times a year. If you have a piece of nice jewelry you should really enjoy it and wear it every day.”

Phoenix necklace made of 18k white gold, diamond pave and rubies. The wings move.

Chan began his career in London as a product designer before adding engineer and architect to his resume. His designs ranged from phone booths to the 33-meter high Millennium Clock Tower in Scotland.

“I really wanted to be a product designer,” he said. “In college all the lecturers tried to put me into fashion design because I got the highest marks in fashion. I’m still very much someone who falls in love with product.”

Over the years, his passion grew to include jewelry and watches and was inspired to design his own pieces based on what he felt was a gap in the marketplace.

“I became more intrigued about the world of luxury jewelry,” he said. “I love fashion and I’m a collector of watches. I started collecting jewelry as well. We couldn’t find something that has a Chinese touch but also very, very modern. It just did not exist in the market.”

While Chan has a partner (French entrepreneur Guillaume Brochard) this company is his vision. He stresses that it’s a design-first company. There is very little market research before determining new products. Nor are gems used to determine designs. And he is deeply involved in how the brand is positioned. The glass walls in the ballroom that overlook the crowded streets below were fronted by poster-sized black-and-white photographs of models dressed in Art Deco period clothing wearing Qeelin jewelry. These images were taken by Chan using 100-year-old lenses and a new version of a vintage camera.

“The pictures are very soft and different from digital,” he said.

Below is a promotional video for the new collection using the same imagery as the photography.



Chan says he gets his design ideas based on what’s around him.

“We don’t have a marketing sense,” he said. “It’s very much for me and also the friends around me. For example, at a dinner party I would notice what is lacking on my friends’ and I would feel this kind of product would fit them perfectly. That is more of the information and source when I’m designing new pieces of jewelry.”

He continued, “Unlike a lot of jewelers, we don’t start from the stones. We start from the design and then we try to find the best stone to go with the product. This is why when you look at the collection you always see a story or a design behind it, rather than seeing 10 carats of stones or big rubies and big sapphires. It doesn’t mean we don’t put attention on the stone it just means the stone serves as an enhancement of the design.”

18k white gold earring with diamond pavé and a ruby from the King & Queen collection.

There’s also a sense of fun. Chan said one collection called Ling Long, which is a bejeweled bell, is an example of this. Bells are common gifts for newborn children because the sound is thought to ward off evil spirits. In this case, the clapper of the bell is a diamond so the first sound the baby hears is the sound of a diamond.

“Qeelin is more like that,” he said. “A bit humorous, more fun, very fashionable and it’s still fine jewelry.”

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