33 Detained in Spectacular $50M Diamond Heist

The van believed to have been in the Belgian airport diamond heist was found burned. Photo credit: NBC News

Authorities in Belgium and Switzerland said Wednesday that they have detained 33 people in three countries suspected of being involved in a spectacular $50 million diamond heist at Brussels airport in February, the Associated Press reports.

A French citizen believed to be one of the actual robbers was detained in his home country. Belgian authorities have requested his extradition. Eight others in Geneva were also detained on Tuesday, according to the report. This was followed Wednesday morning by 40 raids by Belgian police that netted the remaining 24 suspects. A Brussels police spokesman is quoted as saying they are certain they recovered some of the stolen diamonds in Switzerland.

Swiss authorities have issued a statement saying that they recovered diamonds that are believed to have stolen in the heist.

The February 18 robbery was so spectacular and efficient that it was compared in the press to Hollywood movie heists such as Ocean’s Eleven and James Bond films. On February 18, the robbers posing as police drove in a van through a hole in the fence (they created) of Brussels airport to the plane carrying the diamonds, pulled out machine guns, took the rough and cut diamonds, and drove away in less than five minutes. The only known clue was the charred remains of a van believed to be in the heist.

Police reportedly said that there will be announcement later Wednesday on how many will actually be charged and their identifications.

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UBM to Launch Jewelry Fair in Germany during Baselworld 2014

Does Baselworld have competition? Hong Kong-based tradeshow and publishing company, UBM Asia, has been coy about this but its new jewelry show in Europe will butt heads with Baselworld in 2014.

This new tradeshow called, “Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe,” will be held April 1 – 4, 2014, in Freiburg, Germany. The dates and location line up nicely with Baselworld 2014, which will be held March 27 – April 3, 2014. Freiburg is less than an hour away from Basel, Switzerland. In fact, it’s so close that when I attended Baselworld two years ago, I stayed in Freiburg

This announcement of a new tradeshow comes after the world’s largest watch and jewelry tradeshow finished a $454.5-million upgrade to the Messe Basel complex that came with several upset vendors. In fact, the 1,460 companies who exhibited at the recently concluded Baselworld 2013 was 355 fewer than those who exhibited the prior year.

The biggest player to exit Baselworld this year was David Yurman, after what was described as “‘exasperating’ back-and-forth with the powers that be at Baselworld.” People from several companies expressed their dissatisfaction to me with their booth placement, the substantial increase in the cost of participating this year, and the pressure to construct newer, larger and more expensive booths for the show. One company, which was one of the few companies to both remain in the same space and not expand their booth, told me they still had to pay 30 percent more than the prior year.

UBM Asia is refusing to acknowledge that they are creating a competing show, calling this new fair “a comprehensive sourcing fair offering a wide range of jewelry products.” It is being positioned “as a high-efficiency, high-level face-to-face jewelry business platform to create real business value for international suppliers and buyers.”

UBM says that more than 260 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions have reserved exhibition space a year ahead of its launch. “This figure represents more than 50 percent of the expected number of exhibitors and represents 60 percent of the total exhibition space which indicates the market’s enthusiasm for this new fair in Europe,” UBM said.

Exhibitors that have signed up are from Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, China, Colombia, France, Germany, Hong Kong region, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Poland, Russia, Spain, Sri Lanka, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, the United Kingdom, the United States and Zambia.

The fair is open to the jewelry trade, business professionals and members of the media. Free admission to save €30 will be granted to preregistered visitors and online preregistration opens in June 2013. 

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Inside Montblanc Montre Headquarters

While going through my blog I realized that there was a story from November that I failed to post. Below is the story of my trip in the fall to the headquarters of Montblanc Montre SA. It's still timely, especially as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) tradeshow for luxury timepieces approaches. Enjoy

Montblanc Montre Headquarters

LE LOCLE, Switzerland — It doesn’t take long to realize this city on the border of France is an industry town. And the industry in this town is watches. In fact, it is here that the Swiss watch industry is said to have been founded.

For all the romance that goes into the marketing and advertising of watch brands the reality is a little different. Many of these culturally and historically significant companies are housed in non-descript identical glass and steel structures located in what can only be described as an office park. The only distinguishing feature on the buildings is their logos on the front. They could very well contain insurance companies, pharmaceutical firms or just about any kind of unexciting endeavor.

A display of the individual components of an automatic movement that was conceived, developed and manufactured in house for Nicolas Rieussec timepieces. Its manual counterpart is the MB R100.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 
Pass the office park and onto the edge of a residential community you come upon an attractive Art Nouveau villa. This is the headquarters of Montblanc Montre SA.

Inside this one-time residential building is where nearly all of the Montblanc watches are made (with the exception of Montblanc Villeret watches). This includes the Star Collection, Sport Collection, Lady Profile Collection, Summit Collection and TimeWalker Collection. Its newer lines are the Nicolas Rieussec Collection, named after the person who invented the chronograph, and the Montblanc Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco, in honor of Grace Kelly, the famous actress and Princess of Monaco. In recent years it began building its movements in house, such as MB R200 for the Nicolas Rieussec.

Montblanc Montre recently began designing and building its own in house movements.Designing the piece is the first step in the process.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Comparing this building with the institutional-like facilities on the outskirts of town, it’s difficult to believe that Montblanc is the newcomer in the Swiss watchmaking industry. Known for its luxury writing instruments, the venerable Hamburg, Germany-based company entered the world of Swiss watchmaking in 1997, when it purchased the villa. Unlike some of its competitors, Montblanc uses this attractive, old-world building in its marketing.

Thierry Junod, general manager of Montblanc Watch Production, had to deal with all of the barbs from his established competitors. “Where do you put the ink?” is one of the most common ones.

Even with modern technology, skilled watchmakers are vital to making superior timepieces. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

 
“We have a lot to do and lot to prove,” Junod said.

The brand already has proven a lot and now stands as a permanent fixture in the world of Swiss watchmaking, particularly with the chronograph models that is its specialty. Inside the one-time residential building, there’s a lot activity as approximately 135 employees churn out watches throughout the year, combining traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with the high-tech machinery that is now commonplace in the industry.
 

Automation with the human touch. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In addition to upholding tradition, this newcomer has also shown innovative tendencies, particularly with its testing facilities. An area in the building is dedicated to testing the integrity and endurance of watches through five sets of tests for a total of 500 hours. The program is designed to simulate the first five years in a watch’s life. Approximately 2 percent of the watches produced are tested for winding performance, accuracy, function of the movement, general performance and water tightness. Videos of the some of the testing are below following the story.

An example of a typical workstation. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Junod said he has a lot of plans for the future. Those plans someday may have to include moving Montblanc Montre to one of those nondescript buildings in the office park.

That would be a shame.

Montblanc will be releasing a number of timepieces at SIHH (January 21 - 25 in Geneva). I will be attending and will provide an overview of the new products. 






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Baselworld 2012: End of an Era; Baselworld 2013: A new era begins

Inside Hall 1, the Hall of Dreams, where all the major watch brands at Baselworld 2012 are located. There will be changes among the exhibitors.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his third report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent

Baselworld 2012, the 40th annual edition of the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry show, may be its most successful yet.

But it also marks the end of an era for the trade fair. Indeed, there was a sense of finality about Baselworld 2012 that had nothing to do with business.

The reason: An enormous and costly restructuring of trade fair buildings and a redesign and revamping of Exhibition Square, the outdoor center of the fair, so total that international visitors and exhibitors from next year onward will not recognize the long-time fair site.

Indeed, Sylvie Ritter, the show director, called Baselworld 2012, a “milestone in the history of our trade show” and “a decisive turning point” before the “start of a new era” in 2013.

This newest modernization in a long history of renovations and expansions of the Basel fairgrounds is scheduled to finished and ready for the 41st edition of Baselworld in April 2013.

Trade show facilities that have housed the annual Baselworld and earlier Swiss watch and jewelry fair for much of the 20th and early 21st centuries are being torn down and replaced with massive new, three-story structures, costing millions of dollars. Show officials promise this enormous undertaking, the most extensive modernization and expansion of the show facilities in its history, will benefit both visitors and exhibitors immensely.

“With investments of around 430 million Swiss francs ($460 million), we will be able to provide our exhibitors, our trade visitors and our journalists with a fantastic trade show infrastructure,” said René Kamm, CEO MCH Group.

The 95-year-old Hall 1, site of  major watch brand exhibitors and the fair ground’s oldest building, will be rebuilt, with its front dismantled, and extended into the exhibition square by a three strew building. Hall 3, across the street (site for gemstone and equipment exhibitors) is being torn down and replaced also with a new three story complex, with a multifunctional event hall (capable of holding up to 2,500 people) on the ground floor. Linking these two buildings will be linked by a two-story complex (starting the second floor level of Hall One, roofing over exhibition square. The exhibition square (pictured left) itself will become a large atrium, open to the public and the trams which will continue to regularly ride through it.

The new complex will have a total of 141,000 square meters and will “ensure a greater level of convenience for our visitors,” says a show report. The final outcome is going to do justice to the expectations of our exhibitors,” says Jacquares Diichene, trade show chairman.

Also changing will be the locations of many exhibitors, especially those watch vendors on the first floor in Hall 1. And members of the Hong Kong exhibitors pavilion, the show’s second largest, will be moving from Hall 6 to Hall 4.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.